Ngeri Nnachi's Final Reflections on our 2023 Civil Rights Bus Tour

As I reflect on the past five days, I can only say that I have an immense feeling of gratitude that I will be sitting with for quite a while. I will be honest in saying that I am not one to feel a sense of hope in thinking about what the future can hold as a result of this trip but I can say that I am excited to hold those that took this trip with me accountable. In our final circle as a group, I said to the white people in our circle that I witnessed many of them become uncomfortable as they learned history from a new vantage point and that I hope they continue to engage in the process of unlearning. I also said that I hope they remain uncomfortable because many others are not comfortable. I truly mean that. I hope that the people that went on this trip that do not look like me always hold this experience with them and use it to empower them to be on the right side of history moving forward, leaving a better legacy for those to come than was left for them. I hope they take meaningful action against injustices for people that look like me not just for the big things but the little ones too, the small indignities, the MACROaggressions (I don’t call them micro because I feel that minimizes their impact…there is absolutely nothing micro about them). In those moments where the default response is “Why are THEY so angry? Why are THEY protesting in the streets? Why are THEY responding with frustration/(fill in the blank)?” that they answer their own question and tap into the feelings they felt during this trip. I cannot tell you how many white people that I have encountered who are completely aloof when it comes to what my people have gone through and who become unintentionally insensitive redirecting my realities and feelings to fit the comforts of the historical lies they have been conditioned to believing as truth. This becomes a tactic used to cover up white fragility, white guilt and white shame, which are all warranted because as we saw on this trip, the perpetrators did not look like me. The lynch mob members did not look like me. I implore every single white person to choose the path that takes them THROUGH those feelings and not the “easy” way out to cater to their own level of comfort completely disregarding those who continue to suffer (directly or indirectly) at their hands. I implore them to choose truth. I implore them to take this opportunity to do what their ancestors did not do and leave the history books better than they found them. So if nothing else, please remember to continue to be uncomfortable for those who do not have the privilege of discomfort being temporary, momentary or the result of a civil rights trip that showcased realities that the harmed are still existing within.

Reflections from Sunday, October 29

T. Marie King is a force to be reckoned with for the Irondale (Alabama) community. Our morning started at the lynching memorial for William Wardley, one of the Jefferson County Lynching Memorial sites. We learned about the amazing work Ms. King is doing to ensure that community members are creating spaces for truth telling to exist. While learning from Ms. King, a number of loud trains came through interrupting our time and all I could do was think about the histories of my people on trains in the area. All I could imagine was how many trains were sources of escape for Black people years ago, holding hopes of having those train tracks lead them to somewhere they could be free. 

Next, we made our way to the 16th Street Baptist Church and the commemorative Kelly Ingram Park across the street. I am intentional about what I wear on my body and the messaging that I send so it meant the world to me to wear my t-shirt that honors them today. Denise McNair. Addie Mae Collins. Carole Robertson. Cynthia Wesley. Denise was 11 years old when she was brutally murdered by white men who bombed their church on that Sunday. Addie Mae, Carole and Cynthia were all 14 years old. They were celebrating youth day at church. It bothers me so much that Black children aren’t even safe. I often think of the horrible things they had to normalize in their short time on earth, the things that they restricted themselves from even dreaming about because of the racism that they all witnessed in their community. All of that and still, they did not get the privilege of seeing another day, hoping that things could get better for them one day. Sarah remembers that before the bombing Denise turned around and asked Addie Mae for help tying the sash in the back of her dress. Soon after, their lives would be taken and Sarah would be the only one left to recount the horrors. It took 39 years for three of the four murderers to face any repercussions for the murders they committed. The fourth one died before that could happen for them. That always disgusts me, that murderers can see to it that someone doesn’t experience any opportunities to live and make memories but the murderers can go on about their lives for decades with absolutely no consequences. I think about the four little girls often, also the fifth one. There are certain times where I am experiencing a moment of joy and think about them, wishing they could have to. In some instances I even take a moment to honor them and dedicate my moment to them. 

One of my favorite things about the park was that the markers honoring the four young girls told the full story in also including the two Black boys that were also murdered the evening of the day that they were as well as the fifth girl who was present in the church basement but survived with injury, Sarah Collins. Sarah was Addie Mae’s younger sister and lost sight in her right eye with no compensation until this day. She has mentioned in interviews how challenging it has been for her not receiving restitution and continuing to pay medical bills for her injuries. 

We spent a significant portion of today with Ms. Joanne Bland. As soon as I saw her, something felt familiar. I felt like I had seen her before. Lo and behold, my memories came flooding in and I realized that I actually had met Ms. Bland during my trip to Selma in 2015 for the 50th year anniversary of the Edmund Pettus Bridge crossing. It was amazing seeing her again and learning about all of the amazing things she has done since I last saw her. She took us by Live Oak Cemetery that was riddled with confederate flags which took me aback. Ms. Bland told us the story of how Lt. General Nathan Bedford Forrest’s commemorative markers made their way to the cemetery and the community’s frustrations around the preservation of his legacy. The reality of it being common knowledge that he was a proud racist who would rather see Black bodies dead than anything else yet there is a strong commitment to ensuring he remain not just present but celebrated is disgusting. I can never call myself surprised by this because if nothing else, history has taught me that at its core, this country is as racist as racism goes and any opportunity to spin a negative narrative will be taken advantage of fully. We also took a look at how different markers told the stories of the past in ridiculous ways. The signage dedicated to Lt. General Forrest tries so hard to make him sound like a great person and successful businessowner. One commemorative marker even called him a self-made millionaire with absolutely no mention of the Black people that he tortured to get there. Ms. Bland did a great job contextualizing the realities of how people throughout the community feel about the racists being so celebrated. Spending a couple of hours with Ms. Joanne was a privilege and I really hope everyone in the country gets the chance to meet her. She showed us around her community with such pride and hope.

We had dinner at The Coffee Shoppe which is a beautiful space where you can tell love resides. You can tell every food item and drink there is made with love and care. It was wonderful sharing in space and memory with the family that owns it. 

Our next stop was an opportunity to sit down with Ms. Bland to learn about her story and how at a very young age, she joined the fight for freedom. I won’t even bother to attempt to do her story justice and I hope that everyone comes to Alabama to hear from her themselves, but her life is a testament to the power of love. Her commitment to making our country a better place for all is inspiring. Seriously, I want to see everyone come visit her because she has such a powerful spirit that calls you in. 

We ended our evening with crossing the Edmund Pettus Bridge together, marching in a line of two people paired as we crossed. We did so in silence and all I could think about as we crossed was our proximity to the water beneath the bridge and how horrifying it had to be for those who marched across in 1965 not knowing if they would meet their demise over that bridge. We would be remiss if we did not at least think about for a moment how racism and throwing Black people into bodies of water tend to go hand in hand with one another, especially down South. That’s all I could think about as we crossed over, the compounding fears that many had to have had that day. I had the opportunity to walk behind Mr. Charles Mauldin which I cannot even put together the words to describe. I can say that I am inspired by the commitments made by those before me and I hope to continue on their journey to freedom. 

It has been an honor to see the work that Common Power is doing to create a legacy for justice, truth telling and preserving history. Their dedication to meaningfully being a part of the community while ensuring their stories are told is inspirational. 

Reflections from Saturday, October 28

Our morning began at the Co-Lab Collective with the documentary “Lynching Postcards: Token of a Great Day" and a conversation around lynching with Dr. David Domke and Dr. Terry Scott. The conversation highlighted the powerful work that Dr. Scott has done in bringing forward the horrors of lynching and the great undertaking of research that led her to being identified as an expert on the subject. Dr. David's thoughtful questions helped us delve into the personal connections that Dr. Terry has to her work and the beautiful process she undertook to bring this dark history to light. The documentary was incredibly difficult to watch, but for different reasons for me. As a Black woman, as a dark-skinned Black woman, I walk through the world very differently than the majority of the people that I sat with in the room. As I watched the documentary, I had to focus on my breathing because I was watching bodies that looked just like mine lose theirs permanently. With an audience. An audience of faces that looked just like those in the room with me. That was a compounding experience. I thought of their last thoughts. I thought of their quests for friendly faces or kind eyes in a sea of hatred that they did not deserve. In one of the lynching photos, I saw a Black man in the crowd and even wondered what that experience had to be for him. I thought of how likely it was that he had no choice in the matter of his being there. I wondered what his thoughts were. How that had to be a lesson to him from someone there to always know his place. To always remember that one wrong move can have him be in a different position the next time. Or one right move even…right for someone else. I constantly think of the lack of agency that Black people had especially then, where our movements were not our own.  I was also intentional in following my breathing because I constantly stare my mortality in the face, and seeing the images of lynching and hearing the narrations of what led to them is no different than what we experience today. Dr. Scott talked about the lynching of Elijah McClain and it took everything in me not to sob in that moment. She talked about how his final words were uttered in grace which nearly broke me. It tends to be the way my people live as a people where even when staring hatred in the face as it is killing us, we still extend love, grace and compassion. It scares me how many have done that in the belief that it would end with them and that the next person would experience something better…yet, here we are. The documentary talked about how a photograph from a lynching extends the life of an event. That made me think about how it also extends the death of Black bodies. As I said, I constantly stare my mortality in the face, and every single lynching photo represents that. It’s a reminder to know that my body is not safe because this country has not yet dealt with this horror.  

I have been to the Legacy Museum twice in the past, and even then you can never be fully prepared for what you will experience. The museum is so perfectly put together in honoring the truth of our history as a country and the parallels between our past and our present. I stared into faces that looked just like mine. Hearing the sounds of waters all around me felt eerily familiar, as if I know what those before me felt when they heard those sounds. I always wonder if my fear of water stems from some generational connection to knowing that my ancestors are in the bottoms of many bodies of water that stole them from our homes setting out to rob them of the livelihoods that they had once held dearly. As I made my way through the various beautifully constructed exhibits, I came across a quote from Charleston residents in 1769. They talked to their governor about the large number of Black people thrown into the river and there being a smell. They talked about how that smell may become dangerous to the health of those who live in the province. It wasn’t explicit, but it was seemingly obvious that it was white people complaining about the smell that the bodies their own community members had been dumping in the water had begun to produce as a result of their brutal murders. It was wild to wrap my head around that. They were essentially calling out their racism as a public health issue but not caring to do anything about stopping it. Reading the narratives of enslaved people putting notices in church bulletins and other publications was difficult. There was a quote where someone said that they hoped their mother would come back after being sold and that other enslaved people would fill them with hope saying she would when they knew in their heart of hearts that she would not. That was a challenge to read and conceptualize because I cannot fathom living in that kind of reality. I have never known a reality even remotely close to that and know that too many before me who look just like me did. 

The Legacy Museum did a phenomenal job structuring the holistic narrative on the Black experience in America starting at the period of enslavement and leading up to our system of mass incarceration in present day. It’s a great learning tool for all that needs to be widespread. If I had my way, every school system would make a field trip to the Legacy Museum mandatory. I would even make every workplace create a trip like this for professional development because every industry has a responsibility to know our collective truth accurately. When I think of the ways that Equal Justice Initiative (EJI) is changing the world, I think of the affirmation of visibility. In the past, people who look like me were so often relegated to the periphery, to not be seen or heard. Founder and Executive Director Bryan Stevenson is challenging that by creating spaces that make us visible. Loudly.  

Deksyos Damtew, project assistant at EJI, spoke with us regarding the work that they are doing in fighting the injustices of our system of mass incarceration by supporting our communities in learning truth and gaining access to resources that meet their most basic needs. We do ourselves a disservice as a society when our conversations around crime and punishment ignore the very real reality of many being pushed to crime as a result of circumstance. Now that is not to say that there are not real instances of crime, but to say that all crimes are not equal. The individual that lives in a food desert, falls subject to being overworked and underpaid finding it hard to make ends meet having to choose between prescription medication and dinner, turning to crime to have a bite of food to eat does not deserve a life sentence in prison. We were reminded yet again that the state of Alabama does not have a public defense system which leaves those within our marginalized communities without the resources to afford adequate defense in the court of law even more susceptible to harsh sentencing in prison due to not having opportunities to be defended. We learned about what EJI is doing to be hands-on in challenging our system of mass incarceration with their anti-poverty initiative and thinking about how food insecurity intersects with crime when hunger is an issue. We also learned about how they are tackling disparities in access to high quality medical care by creating a health clinic. Interventions can and do make a difference. EJI does work regarding re-entry, ensuring that our community members coming home have as smooth a transition back to normalcy as possible. 

At Tuskegee University, we had the opportunity to share in spaces of power in the church on campus and the final resting places of Booker T. Washington and George Washington Carver. Mr. Charles Mauldin, student leader in the 1965 Civil Rights March, shared a number of insights with us on campus and talked about how instrumental Bayard Rustin was in the work that Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. did. We ended the evening sharing space with Dr. Bernard Lafayette and Mrs. Kate Lafayette and their nieces whose hospitality knew no bounds. Dr. Lafayette recounted several stories of how he was nearly lynched at the hands of racists determined to stop his fight for equality. It was powerful seeing Dr. Bernard and Mr. Mauldin reminisce on the experiences they shared during their quests to tackle injustice right here in Alabama over 50 years ago. Their passing of the mantle to us has us ready to pick up where they left off calling truth to power so that we may all be free. 

MLMP bus trip group poses for a photo behind (front row, l-r) Mrs. & Dr. Lafayette’s two nieces, Mrs. Kate lafayette, Dr. Bernard Lafayette, and Mr. Charles Maudlin. we ate dinner at their family’s church, heard stories, and sang together in one very special evening.

Reflections from the Road - Friday, October 27th

Reflections from Friday, October 27, 2023

This trip has been one full of steps but meaningful ones. Montgomery, Alabama is a rich place where history and honesty are experiencing a reckoning. We started our morning at Riverfront Park which Experience Montgomery describes as, “there’s no better place to enjoy Montgomery’s feel-good vibe than Riverfront Park.” I suppose it depends on who you ask and what their understanding of that space is.

Dr. Terry Scott contextualized the power of place and reclamation of agency in paralleling the history of the Alabama River. This river has a history of Black bodies being held captive and sold devoid of any humanization in preparation of being sold at the auction block. If these waters could talk, we could only imagine the stories they would tell. We can only imagine the horrors they have seen. That all changed on August 5, 2023 when Damien Pickett, a Black man who was the co-captain of the Harriott II, in the course of doing his job requested that a private boat, docked where the Harriott II was meant to be, move out of the way and abide by the rules so clearly posted there saying no docking was allowed. In response, Mr. Pickett was met with obscene gestures and violence. The white people felt so entitled that their response to a request for them to follow the rules was violence. Violence and Black bodies have met one another before in this space, but on this day the response was different. The Montgomery Brawl showcased what I consider a reclamation of agency where enough was enough, and the violence committed against a Black body was going to be met with self-defense.

I remember seeing the videos in the media that day, proud that so many people came to the defense of a Black man who was just doing his job. This morning I was proud to pay homage to the power of the space being a place where a narrative was challenged in a very public way. I thought of the many other ways that instance could have gone, where Mr. Pickett could have easily become another hashtag as a result of gun violence when all he expected to do that morning when he left his house was go to work, do his job, and go back home. We talked about the walks many took from these waters on over to the auction where they would be sold and separated from their family members, some forever, never to see their loved ones again. I thought of the raised blood pressures, the heart aches, the many ways that these pains have manifested in Black bodies in that very space over the years. August 5, 2023 seemed to be a welcomed disruption in challenging the public memory of what that space represents. 

Next, we walked through downtown Montgomery to get a better understanding of how signage throughout this part of the city was strategically placed to tell certain stories and, depending on the verbiage, you could likely guess what the interests of the sponsors behind the commemorative plaques were. The Equal Justice Initiative (EJI) sponsored markers took more honest approaches to telling the story of what happened in that area. The commemorative marker highlighting the Montgomery Slave Trade named the streets we stood on as places where slave traders operated, whereas the marker right in the space that was the auction block made no mention of actually being where the auctions took place. The auction block was turned into a fountain 20 years after the period of enslavement ended. I would be remiss if I did not mention how much I appreciated Dr. Terry highlighting an issue that I hold very dearly. Years ago, I made a conscious decision to stop using the term slave because I felt it robbed my ancestors of their humanity and made their whole identity about the circumstance they happened to find themselves in which completely disregarded who they were as people. I use the term enslaved person to refer to them as humanely as possible. They were community members, creative people, people who were loved, and people who were loving. I don’t want to reduce them to one term that depicts the unfortunate circumstance they found themselves in due to no cause of their own. Dr. Terry highlighted that as we spoke about the realities they faced in Montgomery many years ago. 

We spent a moment in front of the EJI facade honoring the contribution they’ve made to changing our narratives regarding history in our country. EJI, founded in 1989, has confronted head on what it means to meaningfully occupy space and create room for truth to exist in spaces that have been intentionally curated to exclude it. EJI’s headquarters are in an old warehouse where enslaved people were kept. Founder Bryan Stevenson is very intentional in utilizing space meaningfully which we will see more of tomorrow as we visit the Legacy Museum and National Memorial for Peace and Justice.

We spent some time outside of Dexter Avenue Baptist church, which was the church that Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. pastored on his own. As a group, we read from Dr. King’s speech, “Our God is Marching On!” a speech he read near the Capitol on March 25, 1965. 

It was incredibly powerful to stand with Mr. Charles Mauldlin as he recounted the conversations that happened in planning the march from Selma to Montgomery. I especially loved watching him reflect on the moments where he stood by the steps of the capitol looking down at the crowd of around 25,000 people gathered in support of voting rights for African Americans. He also proudly recounted that his parents were the first two people in their county to register to vote. He shared so many insights with us about what his experiences have been in Montgomery and it was inspiring to be in that space with him.

As we made our way toward the Capitol we engaged in meaningful discussion around a myriad of topics regarding how anti-Blackness penetrates nearly every facet of our socialization in the United States. David Domke and Dr. Terry Scott did a phenomenal job tying enslavement to our system of mass incarceration creating a timeline for us to understand how enslavement gave way to convict leasing which gave way to the system of incarceration that we experience today. Dr. Terry even talked about how Black bodies were given much more care and consideration during enslavement where slave masters would always stop short of death in punishing enslaved people because they could not afford to lose out on their investments. If they killed those that they enslaved, they would still be responsible for paying for them, whether they were leased, or borrowed…the bottom line was enslavers would owe debts if they killed them. After enslavement ended, they no longer cared to stop short of death. We see that reality today where many die in prison with absolutely no care for their health.

I became overwhelmed with a sense of grief and empowerment visiting the “Mothers of Gynecology Monument.” Though I have no children of my own yet, I am very aware of the public health crisis that I am a part of with Black maternal health outcomes being what they are. The monument and the space it occupies. One of my favorite things about this space is how insignificant J. Marion Sims is there. There is a small placard on the floor that says “This tablet marks the site of the office and infirmary of Dr. J. Marion Sims. Here, in 1845, he performed the first closure of a vesico-vaginal fistula with wire suture, using a pewter spoon as speculum. This operation made him famous throughout the world.” Outside of that, the presence of Black women is loud and large, with a large beautifully constructed sculpture of the three mothers of gynecology---Anarcha, Lucy and Betsey---standing larger than life. I was taken aback by the fullness and beauty of their features. I saw myself in them and took pride in that. Surrounding them were narratives of Black women being humanized and referenced with their pain being acknowledged with love. I can’t fully put into words how powerful this space was for me but I am grateful that it exists. 

Our last stop of today was dinner at J.W. Beverette’s were we learned from former EJI attorney Laurel Hattix. She succinctly broke down the ways in which Alabama’s history creates certain experiences for Black people within our criminal legal system and talked about the work that she had done fighting for those on death row. She talked about the injustices many have faced and the work done to end the death penalty for children. We had the privilege of being joined by one of our group member’s friends who shared with us that he had served 26 years in prison and received clemency from former President Barack Obama. Hearing his story during dinner was inspiring. We left that dinner feeling so full with a call to action, to act…to make sure that we leave this trip empowered and equipped with the knowledge necessary to use our voices for change. I walked away from dinner tonight absolutely in awe of the courage and power those who shared our day with us imparted us with.

Ngeri Nnachi - MLMP Community Engagement Manager - Introduces Herself and the Trip!

My name is Ngeri Nnachi and I’m the Community Engagement Manager with the Maryland Lynching Memorial Project. I am excited to join the MLMP 2023 Civil Rights Bus Trip to document this journey of honoring a history that I hold dearly in representing what community means to me. 

I look forward to bringing you all along with me as I speak to critical figures with wealths of knowledge to share and walk sacred ground where many before me took steps toward freedom for me and others. Today we visited the Mothers of Gynecology monument honoring three enslaved women, Lucy, Betsey, and Anarcha, who had their bodies violently sacrificed for science at the hands of J. Marion Sims. Their experience highlights the racial disparities in healthcare that Black women still experience today with our pain being ignored and our abilities to consent being taken away from us.  

Tomorrow we will visit the Legacy Museum and The National Memorial for Peace and Justice, two powerful commemorations to lynching created by the The Equal Justice Initiative (led by Bryan Stevenson) that opened on April 26, 2018. While I’ve been to both spaces before, the power of the grounds leave me absolutely in awe each time. The Legacy Museum was relocated, expanded and reopened in September 2021 with new exhibits, updated forms of lynching that have happened in present-day, and incredibly compelling imagery including beautiful sculptures from Ghanian Sculptor Kwame Akoto-Bamfo. 

Over the next few days join me as I embark on this experience of identity and strength. Feel free to drop a comment or two letting me know your thoughts. I look forward to you taking this trip along side me. 

We're on the road! The 2023 MLMP Civil Rights Bus Trip is underway!

Thursday, October 26

Silence. Silence followed after participants on the 2023 MLMP Civil Rights Bus Trip listened to Mr. Hank Thomas share his reflections of what it was like to be on one of the Freedom Riders buses that was viciously attacked and burned in Anniston, Alabama in 1961. We were left breathless. Spontaneously, one of the participants began to sing. We joined together.

The first day of the Civil Rights Bus Trip concluded with this weighty and somber moment, yet demonstrated the ways that our group of 38 had already formed important bonds and learned to support and care for each other.

We started our day in Atlanta at Sweet Auburn Market to enjoy a good cup of coffee and listen to our leaders from the Institute of Common Power, Terry Ann Scott and David Domke. They framed the journey were embarking upon through history. We walked Auburn Avenue to the King Center and stopped at important places and spaces to learn more history, study murals, and talk with neighborhood residents. Prior to leaving the King Center, we listened to Georgia Poet Mr. Hank Stewart share his journey through poetry and prose. Mr. Stewart was uplifting, inspirational, and purposeful. We ended up joined in song.

I feel overwhelmed and humbled as I reflect on our country’s history and the behaviors of generations of people. I have much hope that trips like this one will encourage our nation to engage in needed conversation so that we may stop, for once, hate and racial violence.

On Day Two, we will begin early in Montgomery with a walking tour from the river to Dexter Avenue Baptist Church.

Please join us on our journey by following this blog, adding comments, and contributing personal stories!


Some photos from Day One: